Limor sent me a center detent 50k pot that I was not expecting, so I need to switch it out for my 50k no detent pot that I already have at VR2 since I don't want a center detent pot for the accent knob. I tried using solder wick to get it out last night, but there is just too much damn solder in those big holes to get them out with the wick. Does anyone know of a good solder sucker or a better way of desoldering a pot? Also the rings for the big posts on the pot aren't connected to anything are they, they are just structural right? I may have jacked them trying to get the thing out last night.
-jason
good solder suckers
Moderators: altitude, adafruit_support_bill, adafruit, phono, hamburgers
Please be positive and constructive with your questions and comments.
- subatomic
- Posts: 523
- Joined: Wed May 11, 2005 3:12 pm
Re: good solder suckers
When I had the wrong pot in for resonance, I think I used solder sucker for the pins, Just make sure the pins wiggle so you know the pot will tilt out when you heat each post... then I heated each large post and tilted the pot out, then cleaned out each hole...evilxsystems wrote:Limor sent me a center detent 50k pot that I was not expecting, so I need to switch it out for my 50k no detent pot that I already have at VR2 since I don't want a center detent pot for the accent knob. I tried using solder wick to get it out last night, but there is just too much damn solder in those big holes to get them out with the wick. Does anyone know of a good solder sucker or a better way of desoldering a pot? Also the rings for the big posts on the pot aren't connected to anything are they, they are just structural right? I may have jacked them trying to get the thing out last night.
Last edited by subatomic on Thu Nov 17, 2005 5:07 pm, edited 2 times in total.
I'd buy a couple of cheap solder suckers rather than one expensive model, because no matter how well you treat it it will break fairly quickly. And the trick if you want to suck out everything, is to heat the tin from the other side of the board, to get a clear shot at sucking it up. Heating it up, then removing the iron, getting the sucker in position and hitting the trigger successfully is fiddly (but fun when you get the hang of it )
-
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2005 1:55 pm
- etaoin
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2005 6:08 am
Not sure if this is the same (as it doesn't say 80-3-5 anywhere), but this is what I use:Most braid sold out there is BANNED, the VERY BEST is the Chemtronics 80-3-5, goes for about 3.25 a spool.
.
However, I do find that for removing solder from metalized through holes the solder sucker works far better. I usually remove the big lumps with the wik and open up the holes with the sucker.
By the way, about the above mentioned tip as to heating up the solder first and then bringing the sucker in. The tip of the sucker should be heat resistant (at least mine is), so I usually have the sucker right next to the tip of the soldering iron which means I can suck out the solder while it is still at maximum temperature and liquidity.
Last edited by etaoin on Fri Nov 18, 2005 4:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Posts: 406
- Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2005 10:23 pm
well I got out the pot and the ba6110 using this thing...works pretty damn well...it looks ridiculous and the tip is a bit huge but it was ok for those parts of the board..
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... age=search
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... age=search
Please be positive and constructive with your questions and comments.