Thanks for the replies, some really good tips here!
Is trike one of the nasty ones?
303 cases for x0x?
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Please be positive and constructive with your questions and comments.
- dnigrin
- Posts: 123
- Joined: Fri May 15, 2009 5:24 pm
Re: 303 cases for x0x?
Here's how Kevin Lightner does it - and he knows his stuff:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DwRlZyIG6rg
http://www.synthfool.com/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DwRlZyIG6rg
http://www.synthfool.com/
-
- Posts: 98
- Joined: Tue Dec 01, 2009 3:22 pm
Re: 303 cases for x0x?
That is insane! Lol. If I had a compressor I may consider itdnigrin wrote:Here's how Kevin Lightner does it - and he knows his stuff:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DwRlZyIG6rg
http://www.synthfool.com/
- paradigm x
- Posts: 237
- Joined: Sun Feb 07, 2010 3:49 pm
Re: 303 cases for x0x?
Quite - id never think to do that to anything electronic.
Insane.
The synth was filthy.
Sure he knows what hes doing tho.
Insane.
The synth was filthy.
Sure he knows what hes doing tho.
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- Posts: 363
- Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2009 7:10 pm
Re: 303 cases for x0x?
I guess this would be fine for circuits that are on fibreglass boards. But many are paper based, like the 303 I believe.. Water is the last thing you'd want on that surely? Plain ol damp often causes old boards like that enough problems already.
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- Posts: 248
- Joined: Fri Oct 08, 2010 4:49 am
Re: 303 cases for x0x?
A little water, or alcohol (not the fun kind!) for a short period of time won't hurt those. Overnight soaking may not be advisable...Luap wrote:I guess this would be fine for circuits that are on fibreglass boards. But many are paper based, like the 303 I believe.. Water is the last thing you'd want on that surely? Plain ol damp often causes old boards like that enough problems already.
Changing temperatures, especially going from powered up to powered down, do more damage to those things than anything else. I've worked on a few old synths and amps that the board had warped so much over time that it was almost impossible to put all the mounting bolts/screws back in when done! Possibly helpful tip for anyone working on something faulty that has an old, warped, paper-based phenolic board: Save time and money by checking all the solder joints first! I would say almost 50% of the time the problem is fixed (or most of them fixed) by re-doing solder joints in the affected area of the circuit when you have a board like that. If the piece of gear is at least making some kind of sound, and you are confident with having it powered up with the case open, take a NON-CONDUCTIVE object (I use the back of my plastic solder-sucker, it has a rubber tip on the plunger.) and gently tap around in various spots on the board. Any spot you hit that makes the sound change at all needs to be re-soldered at the very least.
Please be positive and constructive with your questions and comments.