1st question:
I've been toying with the idea of filing/sanding down a flat spot on the top of each LED to create a sort of "soft diffuser",
something translucently opaque in which to softly scatter the light emitting from the LED...
It would be sort of like pempleson's flat LEDs he's got.
But you could use any LED for it, not just special german imports.
Has anyone tried this? My concern is maybe the LED doesn't poke up
beyond the top plate enough to flatten it flush with the plate (I haven't completed my box yet).
An alternate idea is to gently use fine grit sandpaper and just buf the surface of each LED, keeping them the same domed shape as before.
Sort of a sandblasting effect.
I wonder if people make translucent LEDs already with this effect done to them...
-----------------------------------
2nd question:
What's everyone's favorite/cheapest place to order LEDs? thinking of possibly blue/purple/orange (if I can diffuse them),
with orange on the tempo, blue/purple on the rest.
Granted I'll really need to test it on the bench before soldering them in
because I know the high wavelengths of blue/purple could be hard on the eyes especially at a dark show.
I've found the following, but the blue/white/purple are still expensive, but maybe that's the way things are:
- http://www.superbrightleds.com/leds.htm
- http://www.ledsupply.com/led-catalog.html (this is where I found blue/purple/orange)
- http://www.theledlight.com/
- http://www.eled.com/
LED mods
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Please be positive and constructive with your questions and comments.
-
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2005 10:41 pm
your idea is great !
maybe you could "seal" the holes from the frontside and "glue" them with epoxy ?
but just one thing to "...not just special german imports."
well, to 100% it would be a grey re-import or something like that. absolutley sure
that those LED were not made in germany. i can´t believe that those are not to find
in the states or elsewhere out of german market... lol...
<guido>
maybe you could "seal" the holes from the frontside and "glue" them with epoxy ?
but just one thing to "...not just special german imports."
well, to 100% it would be a grey re-import or something like that. absolutley sure
that those LED were not made in germany. i can´t believe that those are not to find
in the states or elsewhere out of german market... lol...
<guido>
- subatomic
- Posts: 523
- Joined: Wed May 11, 2005 3:12 pm
Found these pages if you're looking for violet LEDs:
- http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/ledvio.htm (which leads to http://www.besthongkong.com/index.php?cPath=1 - which has some nice prices)
- http://www.hebeiltd.com.cn/?p=z.pricelist.led.diode (they have blue/red LEDs which can be purple or pink depending on how bright)
both stores have great prices (sub $.50 for each LED, good quantity discounts)
I'm thinking the blue/red LEDs are the way to go if you're doing purple, perhaps easier on the eyes, and less of the UV invisible light to blind me.
- http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/ledvio.htm (which leads to http://www.besthongkong.com/index.php?cPath=1 - which has some nice prices)
- http://www.hebeiltd.com.cn/?p=z.pricelist.led.diode (they have blue/red LEDs which can be purple or pink depending on how bright)
both stores have great prices (sub $.50 for each LED, good quantity discounts)
I'm thinking the blue/red LEDs are the way to go if you're doing purple, perhaps easier on the eyes, and less of the UV invisible light to blind me.
-
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2005 3:07 am
- creekree
- Posts: 100
- Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2005 1:40 pm
there is absolutely no problem with sanding the LEDs down to get "flat-tops".
i have done it a few times and it works really well. just make sure not to take too much off of the LED - when you reach the VERY SMALL wire that is in there (ranging from kathode to anode - take a close look) then you ruined it.
basically you can take a file or sandpaper or whatever to give it the shape you want. then use fine sandpaper (600-800 or so) to polish it. (put the sandpaper on an even surface, take the LED between thumb and index and make circular motions - ah come on, you figured that out by yourself already) you´ll get a somewhat dim finish. if you want it to be bright as the sunshine, then use some clearcoat spraypaint - not too much!
all in all, a piece of cake and worthwhile if you dont want to buy new LEDs (or pay the postage for them - LEDs are cheap, postal service aint)
i have done it a few times and it works really well. just make sure not to take too much off of the LED - when you reach the VERY SMALL wire that is in there (ranging from kathode to anode - take a close look) then you ruined it.
basically you can take a file or sandpaper or whatever to give it the shape you want. then use fine sandpaper (600-800 or so) to polish it. (put the sandpaper on an even surface, take the LED between thumb and index and make circular motions - ah come on, you figured that out by yourself already) you´ll get a somewhat dim finish. if you want it to be bright as the sunshine, then use some clearcoat spraypaint - not too much!
all in all, a piece of cake and worthwhile if you dont want to buy new LEDs (or pay the postage for them - LEDs are cheap, postal service aint)
- subatomic
- Posts: 523
- Joined: Wed May 11, 2005 3:12 pm
"frosty" diffuser for LEDs
Cool, thanks for the ideas. I definately want to try for the "frosty" looking soft diffuser finish, since I want to try the shorter wavelength colors, I'm hoping it will take the harshness off the blue for example... scattering the light like a frosted incandescant light bulb. Also will help the x0x lights be seen at severe angles.creekree wrote:you´ll get a somewhat dim finish
Anyone know what MCD I should be using?
With and without the "frosty" diffuser?
(i.e. what's typical for indicator lights on other synths)
If you do a search for "Diffuse LED" you will find them already with the appearance you want... of course this is not the cheap DIY way to go about it.
There are more colors available at lower prices in the clear finish anyway... so maybe best to roll your own regardless of color/flatness you desire. For myself I would like diffuse purple or long-UV, flat topped LEDs in my ideal x0x.
There are more colors available at lower prices in the clear finish anyway... so maybe best to roll your own regardless of color/flatness you desire. For myself I would like diffuse purple or long-UV, flat topped LEDs in my ideal x0x.
- subatomic
- Posts: 523
- Joined: Wed May 11, 2005 3:12 pm
careful when ordering LEDs from hongkong, the shipping is crazy. I got like 500 blue/purple/pink/green/white/orange LEDs for $20. But the shipping was like $32... ouch!
Are there any importers in the US that are selling LEDs for close to hongkong cheap prices and also have the more modern colors like blue/purple/white/pink. Would be good to know for the future.
Are there any importers in the US that are selling LEDs for close to hongkong cheap prices and also have the more modern colors like blue/purple/white/pink. Would be good to know for the future.
- subatomic
- Posts: 523
- Joined: Wed May 11, 2005 3:12 pm
Could someone give me a list of the resistor slots related to the LEDs?
(or just update the schematic so its readable?)
It's too crowded to read in the schematic png.
I want to make sure I pair up the LEDs correctly (there's a few resistors in the tempo knob section I can't tell who they belong to.)
(or just update the schematic so its readable?)
It's too crowded to read in the schematic png.
I want to make sure I pair up the LEDs correctly (there's a few resistors in the tempo knob section I can't tell who they belong to.)
-
- Posts: 82
- Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 9:37 pm
had the Dremel out, so I put a buffing attachment on and decided to buff one of the LEDs down flat and test it out- LOOKS AMAZING! I'm gonna try and find my camera cause you really have to see it- in the meantime I'll try and describe: it's a soft, diffused look, but the center glows like a little circle. You have to trust me, it's so very nice looking and much easier on the eyes.
- maxtim
- Posts: 213
- Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 5:01 pm
To find the resistor that relates to a certain LED just look at the traces on the PCB. That is how I did it. Can't go wrong. Verify with a continuity test if you still are not 100% sure.
I bench tested each type/color of LED I installed . I hooked up a 5V power source, the LED and a 10K potentiometer. Then adjusted the pot till I liked the illumination, measured the pot and used that value of resistor in the circuit.
I also installed a 5k pot (front pannel mount mod) for the tempo LED which is a 10mm 40,000mcd monster that I want to be able to adjust on the fly from a subtle indicator to a blasting strobe
I bench tested each type/color of LED I installed . I hooked up a 5V power source, the LED and a 10K potentiometer. Then adjusted the pot till I liked the illumination, measured the pot and used that value of resistor in the circuit.
I also installed a 5k pot (front pannel mount mod) for the tempo LED which is a 10mm 40,000mcd monster that I want to be able to adjust on the fly from a subtle indicator to a blasting strobe
- subatomic
- Posts: 523
- Joined: Wed May 11, 2005 3:12 pm
That's interesting. Why do you want to adjust this? Is it for the difference between creating/using the device where it could be too bright and annoying - and performance where you want the audience to see it?maxtim wrote:I also installed a 5k pot (front pannel mount mod) for the tempo LED which is a 10mm 40,000mcd monster that I want to be able to adjust on the fly from a subtle indicator to a blasting strobe
For something like LED brightness, a tiny rear panel pot might be enough and not mess up the front panel. it could be the screwdriver kind, or even a little thumb knob sticking out a little.
- maxtim
- Posts: 213
- Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 5:01 pm
I just cahnge the mod today from a trim pot to a switch on the front pannel between the LED and the Tempo knob. Now I switch the LED over from a dim-light indicator brigntness (5K) to a full strobe brightness (1K) with ease.
The reason I wanted this was when I am working at the x0xb0x I don't want to be blinded by this LED which is the equivalent brightness of looking into a mag-light. BUt it is such a cool visual that I want it full brightness for all to see it strobing to the tempo of the song.
I learned my lesson of super bright LEDs when I replaced a couple of LEDs on the D-beam controller of my Roland SP808ex sampler and was constantly blinded (low light setting). It was such a pain in the ass to pull this thing apart and do the mods an button it up again. I ended up cutting the plastic in front of the LEDs with an exacto knife so I could aim the LEDs away from me.
Now when I set up LEDs for intensity, I turn the lights out and dim the LED till I can look directly into it without it becoming an irritant.
If it is a LED for display (not aimed at me) I do the opposite and use a pot to drive it as hard and bright as it will go before burning out. Love that putrid burning LED smell
LED-RESISTOR:
1-234
2-237
3-241
4-242
5-243
6-244
7-250
8-251
9-252
10-253
11-256
12-260
13-261
14-262
15-266
16-267
17-268
18-238
19-239
20-245
21-246
22-248
23-249
24-258
25-265
26-264
27-203
28-229
29-228
30-227
31-223
32-222
33-221
34-217
35-215
36-213
37-211
38-208
39-205
40-204
I forgot that once the citcuit is fully assembled, you can no longer see/follow the traces easily.
I made the list before assembly and related all the LED to the variouse colors, resistor values and functions.
Example :
LED1-R234-5Kpot-Tempo
CHEERS
The reason I wanted this was when I am working at the x0xb0x I don't want to be blinded by this LED which is the equivalent brightness of looking into a mag-light. BUt it is such a cool visual that I want it full brightness for all to see it strobing to the tempo of the song.
I learned my lesson of super bright LEDs when I replaced a couple of LEDs on the D-beam controller of my Roland SP808ex sampler and was constantly blinded (low light setting). It was such a pain in the ass to pull this thing apart and do the mods an button it up again. I ended up cutting the plastic in front of the LEDs with an exacto knife so I could aim the LEDs away from me.
Now when I set up LEDs for intensity, I turn the lights out and dim the LED till I can look directly into it without it becoming an irritant.
If it is a LED for display (not aimed at me) I do the opposite and use a pot to drive it as hard and bright as it will go before burning out. Love that putrid burning LED smell
LED-RESISTOR:
1-234
2-237
3-241
4-242
5-243
6-244
7-250
8-251
9-252
10-253
11-256
12-260
13-261
14-262
15-266
16-267
17-268
18-238
19-239
20-245
21-246
22-248
23-249
24-258
25-265
26-264
27-203
28-229
29-228
30-227
31-223
32-222
33-221
34-217
35-215
36-213
37-211
38-208
39-205
40-204
I forgot that once the citcuit is fully assembled, you can no longer see/follow the traces easily.
I made the list before assembly and related all the LED to the variouse colors, resistor values and functions.
Example :
LED1-R234-5Kpot-Tempo
CHEERS
- subatomic
- Posts: 523
- Joined: Wed May 11, 2005 3:12 pm
here's what flat LEDs look like
just to follow up with this thread, I went ahead and ground down the LEDs to make them flat, they look really cool and I'm glad I did it:
And here's another picture that's too big to display here.
And here's another picture that's too big to display here.
Please be positive and constructive with your questions and comments.