If I would add several ir led's, would the range of the tv-b-gone increase? more distance or wider range?
and why did you add for every ir led one transistor?
distance
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Please be positive and constructive with your questions and comments.
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A lens is a better solution for range. Then of course you will want more LEDs behind the lens too.
Think a 3-4" peice of pvc pipe with a lens on the end, make a plunger that will slide down the pipe put a round board fulll of LEDS on the end of the plunger.
Mount lens in one end of pipe use plunger to focus by sliding in other end of pipe use dig cam to see pattern when it is smallest pattern you can get it will have longest range. But remember you are giving up angle of spread. The lens will make it a narrow beam instead of a cone.
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Also the same people that made the LEDs used in this kit make some that are way brighter and way more power hungry might want to try those if you dont want to carry a large device with you.
10mm IR LED 150mW
http://www.everlight.com/upload/product ... C-L223.pdf
Doing some figuring i think these will work in this circuit to replace the narrow beam. These are 25 degree. It will draw a little less than 500mA for just these two LEDs so battery life would be way lower.
Think a 3-4" peice of pvc pipe with a lens on the end, make a plunger that will slide down the pipe put a round board fulll of LEDS on the end of the plunger.
Mount lens in one end of pipe use plunger to focus by sliding in other end of pipe use dig cam to see pattern when it is smallest pattern you can get it will have longest range. But remember you are giving up angle of spread. The lens will make it a narrow beam instead of a cone.
===========
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Also the same people that made the LEDs used in this kit make some that are way brighter and way more power hungry might want to try those if you dont want to carry a large device with you.
10mm IR LED 150mW
http://www.everlight.com/upload/product ... C-L223.pdf
Doing some figuring i think these will work in this circuit to replace the narrow beam. These are 25 degree. It will draw a little less than 500mA for just these two LEDs so battery life would be way lower.
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I haven't tried using a lens, but I've seen online where some guy used a binoculars to turn off TVs from way long away.
Everlight does make some other LEDs, but be sure to use IR emitters with a wavelength of 940nm. The HIR5393C/L223 is 850nm. I haven't experimented with 850nm emitters. I would think that the range would be greatly diminished since, as far as I know, IR receivers in TVs are all 940nm, and have reduced response at 850nm.
Until very recently, the brightest IR emitters that Everlight made were the ones in the TV-B-Gone Kit. The 20 degree emitters (IR333-A) have an output of 750mW/sr. And the 40 degree emitters (IR333C/H0/L10) have an output of 450mW/sr (which is really good for such a huge increase in area covered). But just the other day I was looking on the Everlight.com website, and saw two other emitters:
IR313 -- a 25 degree emitter with an output of 700mW/sr
IR1503 -- a 20 degree emitter with an output of 1000mW/sr
So, these two would be the ones to play with -- in addition to the 40 degree emitters, you can cover a lot of area with a lot of IR!
Mitch.
Everlight does make some other LEDs, but be sure to use IR emitters with a wavelength of 940nm. The HIR5393C/L223 is 850nm. I haven't experimented with 850nm emitters. I would think that the range would be greatly diminished since, as far as I know, IR receivers in TVs are all 940nm, and have reduced response at 850nm.
Until very recently, the brightest IR emitters that Everlight made were the ones in the TV-B-Gone Kit. The 20 degree emitters (IR333-A) have an output of 750mW/sr. And the 40 degree emitters (IR333C/H0/L10) have an output of 450mW/sr (which is really good for such a huge increase in area covered). But just the other day I was looking on the Everlight.com website, and saw two other emitters:
IR313 -- a 25 degree emitter with an output of 700mW/sr
IR1503 -- a 20 degree emitter with an output of 1000mW/sr
So, these two would be the ones to play with -- in addition to the 40 degree emitters, you can cover a lot of area with a lot of IR!
Mitch.
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- Posts: 24
- Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2008 10:12 pm
hi Mitch would these be a good replacement for the wide angle emitters supplied in the v1.1 kit thanx Rob in Canada
Material: InGaN
Emitting Colour: 940nm InfraRed
Lens Type: Water clear
Reverse Voltage: 5.0 V
DC Forward Voltage: Typical: 1.9 V Max: 2.3 V
Wave Length: 940nm
DC Forward Current: 20mA
Viewing Angle: 30-40degree
Lead Soldering Temp: 260oC for 5 seconds
Intensely Bright
If You Have Any Question, Please Contact Us.
Electrical-Optical Characteristic (Ta=25°C)
Item Symbol Condtitions Min. Typ. Max. Unit
Forward Voltage VF If=20mA / 1.90 2.30 V
Reverse Current IR VR=5V / 5 5 uA
Dominant Wavelength / IF=20mA / 940 / nm
Luminous Intensity IV IF=20mA / / / mcd
50% Power Angle / IF=20mA / 35° / degree
Absolute Maximum Ratings (Ta = 25°C)
Item Symbol Absolute Max. Rating Unit
Power Dissipation PD 100 mW
Forward Current (DC) IF 20-25 mA
Peak Forward Current IFP 100 mA
Reverse Voltage VR 5 V
Operation Temperature Topr -40~85°C /
Storage Temperature Tstg -10~100°C /
Lead Soldering Temperature Tsol Max. 260°C for 5 sec.
(3mm from the base of the epoxy bulb)
Material: InGaN
Emitting Colour: 940nm InfraRed
Lens Type: Water clear
Reverse Voltage: 5.0 V
DC Forward Voltage: Typical: 1.9 V Max: 2.3 V
Wave Length: 940nm
DC Forward Current: 20mA
Viewing Angle: 30-40degree
Lead Soldering Temp: 260oC for 5 seconds
Intensely Bright
If You Have Any Question, Please Contact Us.
Electrical-Optical Characteristic (Ta=25°C)
Item Symbol Condtitions Min. Typ. Max. Unit
Forward Voltage VF If=20mA / 1.90 2.30 V
Reverse Current IR VR=5V / 5 5 uA
Dominant Wavelength / IF=20mA / 940 / nm
Luminous Intensity IV IF=20mA / / / mcd
50% Power Angle / IF=20mA / 35° / degree
Absolute Maximum Ratings (Ta = 25°C)
Item Symbol Absolute Max. Rating Unit
Power Dissipation PD 100 mW
Forward Current (DC) IF 20-25 mA
Peak Forward Current IFP 100 mA
Reverse Voltage VR 5 V
Operation Temperature Topr -40~85°C /
Storage Temperature Tstg -10~100°C /
Lead Soldering Temperature Tsol Max. 260°C for 5 sec.
(3mm from the base of the epoxy bulb)
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- Posts: 134
- Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 4:54 pm
The Luminous Intensity (given in mcd, which stands for milli-candles)) is missing. This is an important spec, since it says how bright the light is.
I would guess that this IR emitter is not very bright compared with the ones that come with the kit (and that I use in the stock TV-B-Gone keychain), since the peak forward current is only 100mA (the ones used for the TV-B-Gone kit have peak forward current of 1A).
This IR emitter is also 3mm (the one that comes with the TV-B-Gone kit is 5mm). In general (though not always), 3mm emitters are less bright than 5mm emitters.
Is there a reason why you don't want to use the Everlight IR333C/H0/L10? These are really cheap, and readily available at Mouser.
Mitch.
I would guess that this IR emitter is not very bright compared with the ones that come with the kit (and that I use in the stock TV-B-Gone keychain), since the peak forward current is only 100mA (the ones used for the TV-B-Gone kit have peak forward current of 1A).
This IR emitter is also 3mm (the one that comes with the TV-B-Gone kit is 5mm). In general (though not always), 3mm emitters are less bright than 5mm emitters.
Is there a reason why you don't want to use the Everlight IR333C/H0/L10? These are really cheap, and readily available at Mouser.
Mitch.
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- Posts: 24
- Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2008 10:12 pm
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- Posts: 134
- Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 4:54 pm
The kit contains two different kinds of IR emitters.
The colorless ones are Everlight IR333C/H0/L10, and are +/- 40 degrees, and are extremely bright.
The blue tinted ones are Everlight IR333-A, and are +/- 20 degrees, and have the same amount of energy in half the angle, so are even more incredibly bright.
The combination of the two is really nice. The narrow angle makes the range further, but the wider angle makes it so you don't have to aim so accurately.
If you want some extremely narrow ones that have even more intensely focused, extremely bright IR, then you can use Vishay TSAL6100, which are +/- 10 degrees.
All of these IR emitters are available at Mouser.
Mitch.
The colorless ones are Everlight IR333C/H0/L10, and are +/- 40 degrees, and are extremely bright.
The blue tinted ones are Everlight IR333-A, and are +/- 20 degrees, and have the same amount of energy in half the angle, so are even more incredibly bright.
The combination of the two is really nice. The narrow angle makes the range further, but the wider angle makes it so you don't have to aim so accurately.
If you want some extremely narrow ones that have even more intensely focused, extremely bright IR, then you can use Vishay TSAL6100, which are +/- 10 degrees.
All of these IR emitters are available at Mouser.
Mitch.
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- Posts: 24
- Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2008 10:12 pm
Please be positive and constructive with your questions and comments.