adafruit_support wrote:Let's start by getting some clear photos of the front & back of the boards. Maybe a close-up of the suspect header pin too. If there is a problem with pin 1, that is the ground pin for everything but the backlight.
adafruit_support wrote:One leg of Q1 looks a bit solder-starved and pin 1 of IC3 is balled up around the pin. If you passed the 'beep' test, then they are probably functional joints, but may develop problems in the future. See the last page of the soldering tutorial for recommendations.http://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering
If you have a multimeter, check the continuity between ground on the LCD and ground on the main board. Don't probe on or around Pin 1. Probing an intermittent connection often just makes it conductive and gives misleading results.
how do I check the ground continuity between the boards, as you suggest? I do not see any pin or contact clearly marked as "ground."
adafruit_support wrote:how do I check the ground continuity between the boards, as you suggest? I do not see any pin or contact clearly marked as "ground."
On the main board, the pin on the side of the DC barrel jack is a reliable ground. On the display, you can follow the trace from pin 1 to some other location with an exposed pad that you can probe. In general, most boards have a large 'ground plane' covering unused areas of the board that all the ground signals connect to.
adafruit_support wrote:That is probably OK. Ideally it would be good to find a ground point away from the suspect connection because pressing on it may make an intermittent joint conductive.
Are you still getting a beep on power-up?
adafruit_support wrote:Alright. So pin-1 seems to be a solid contact in spite of the clipped housing. The processor is running. Other than the crystal & RTC joints previously mentioned, the solder on the main board looks OK.
Touch up those questionable joints and post a photo showing the full-length of the display header.
adafruit_support wrote:Header soldering looks pretty good. Maybe a touch more solder on pin 7 and re-flow 18 and 19. The ISP connector is used later if you want to re-program the clock using an AVR programmer. The other piece is an FTDI Friend. That is another (somewhat easier) method for re-programming the clock. Both are described here: http://www.ladyada.net/make/monochron/bootload.html
adafruit_support wrote:The FTDI friend is not part of the Monochron kit. Did you order that separately?
I'll be willing to return it if necessary.
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