From what you describe, the problem has something to do with the power-fail sensing circuit. A simple test is to check the voltage at pin 13 on the ATmega.
With the DC adapter plugged in, the level on pin 13 should be >= 1.22V.
With the DC adapter unplugged, the level on the pin should be <= 0.8V
Icetube clock instruction manual
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- adafruit_support_rick
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- adafruit_support_bill
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Re: Icetube clock instruction manual
We've sold thousands of these clocks and we've only had a few reports of this problem. So I don't think that it is a software problem (although it is possible that jarchie's software is better able to handle the marginal cases). The power failure detection depends on properly detecting a voltage threshold. But there are always small manufacturing variations between components. This includes processors as well as passive components like resistors and capacitors.If it's software, the processor may not have anything to do with the problem, and any new processor programmed the same way might end up having the same problem.
For example: If a resistor in your detection circuit is toward the low end of the spec and the voltage reference in the processor is toward the high-end of the spec, the power-fail detection may not work right. I suggested replacing the processor since it is socketed and does not require any de-soldering. If it doesn't work, we can look at other things.
- jarchie
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Re: Icetube clock instruction manual
Sorry... I've been traveling recently and have not been paying much attention to this board.I was hoping jarchie would chime in here, since he's done a lot of work in this area. We haven't seen this symptom on any of the clocks we've had in-house, so we have not been able to diagnose it.
Unfortunately, aside from the advice I wrote to Alex Osadzinski, which he has not had time to try, I'm similarly baffled. Like you, I suspect that the problem is a marginal component, but also think pulling the !RESET pin up to +5v is worth a try.
Niznai, if you'd like to try my xmas-icetube firmware, I'd be willing to program a chip and mail it to you if you email me your mailing address.
I wish I could be more helpful.
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Re: Icetube clock instruction manual
I was just wondering if I picked up a processor locally if it needs any software put on it before it runs the clock, and I guess the answer is yes, so I would have to get something with soem software on it from you guys.
But before then, John, I am not sure what your software does, do I need to change anything hardware or software in teh clock to go along with your chip?
And finally, the long awaited pictures (hope it works).
You can see the clearance in the picture below. The comb connector has better clearance, the tube PCB is closer to the side panel, but does not touch. Not very clear, I know, but this is what happens when you take low quality screenshots of blown up jpegs. A .raw file would have taken forever to upload if possible at all. PLease not the tube PCB is perfectly perpendicular to the main board, and the comb connector wires are perfectly perpendicular and bend perfectly parallel to the tube board. I am very particular about this. I could have changed the angle (tilt the tube pcb before soldering the comb connector to it) and get more clearance to the side panel but in my view the crooked look was not worth it.
Soldering on both PCBs looks okay to me, let me know if you spot anything of concern.
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- Tube PCB clearance.jpg (20.6 KiB) Viewed 1034 times
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- Tube PCB.jpg (29.3 KiB) Viewed 1035 times
Last edited by niznai on Wed Aug 14, 2013 11:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- jarchie
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Re: Icetube clock instruction manual
Ah yes... I should have explained that before! My apologies.niznai wrote:But before then, John, I am not sure what your software does, do I need to change anything hardware or software in teh clock to go along with your chip?
My software is a rewrite of the Adafruit Ice Tube Clock Firmware with additional features and modifications. It is discussed in this thread and the README on GitHub has a complete list of features.
EDIT: There are no hardware changes required if I send you a preprogrammed ATmega328P. The ATmega328P has the same form-factor as the ATmega168V that comes with the clock. It's a drop-in replacement; no soldering required.
But if you want to reprogram the clock yourself, you will need to buy a programmer, like Adafruit's USBtinyISP, and a new microcontroller chip for your clock--the ATmega328P.
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Re: Icetube clock instruction manual
adafruit_support_rick wrote:From what you describe, the problem has something to do with the power-fail sensing circuit. A simple test is to check the voltage at pin 13 on the ATmega.
With the DC adapter plugged in, the level on pin 13 should be >= 1.22V.
With the DC adapter unplugged, the level on the pin should be <= 0.8V
Didn't see this post. Will check and report back. ATmega is the little square thingie, right? Counting clockwise from pin one (arrowed on the casing), right?
- jarchie
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Re: Icetube clock instruction manual
It's the one in the DIP package, schematic attached.
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- ATmega168V / ATmega328P pin outs (they are identical)
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Re: Icetube clock instruction manual
Okay, checked and I have .27mV on battery, and 1.25V on adaptor. guess it's a bit low on the battery, but not sure what to do. I'll have a look at the battery circuit diagram.
- adafruit_support_rick
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Re: Icetube clock instruction manual
This is likely to be your problem - you've either got a dead battery, or you've got a bad connection someplace. Shouldn't be too difficult to track down.
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Re: Icetube clock instruction manual
well, I checked the battery before (see my post) and it was 3.2V. I'll chase the connections then.
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Re: Icetube clock instruction manual
Not sure what is wrong, all connections seem fine. Problem is off the grid, the battery drops to about 1.2V. Is this normal for the clock in normal operation or is something draining the battery excessively? I pulled the battery out and it comes back up to 3V. Measuring with the battery in, adding the Schottky and the electrolytic gives exactly the 1.2V I have off the battery, so I guess at least that far the soldering is fine. I have .6V on R1 and continuity all along to pin 13. With the power adaptor, battery recovers back to about 2.7V.
I measured all the components before installing with a multimeter so am pretty sure the resistors are correctly installed and have values within tolerance.
Couldn't find a wiring dia for the battery supply circuit, I am going only by the motherboard in the second kit I have. Would appreciate if anyone has a wiring diagram to help me.
I measured all the components before installing with a multimeter so am pretty sure the resistors are correctly installed and have values within tolerance.
Couldn't find a wiring dia for the battery supply circuit, I am going only by the motherboard in the second kit I have. Would appreciate if anyone has a wiring diagram to help me.
- adafruit_support_bill
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Re: Icetube clock instruction manual
Even very weak batteries will look pretty good if you test them without a load.I pulled the battery out and it comes back up to 3V.
- jarchie
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Re: Icetube clock instruction manual
These schematics can be downloaded off the Ice Tube Clock page, but you'll need to download Eagle CAD to view the files. I've also "printed" PDF versions of the schematic and board.niznai wrote:Couldn't find a wiring dia for the battery supply circuit, I am going only by the motherboard in the second kit I have. Would appreciate if anyone has a wiring diagram to help me.
- phild13
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Re: Icetube clock instruction manual
jarchie, If you set the print setup scale factor to .6 and the orientation to landscape (for 8.5x11 paper) the schematic will print on one page and be easier to read
Icetube schematic
Icetube schematic
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Re: Icetube clock instruction manual
adafruit_support_bill wrote:Even very weak batteries will look pretty good if you test them without a load.I pulled the battery out and it comes back up to 3V.
I know, that is why I tested it under load as well, as explained above. The battery is the one I pinched from the second kit. I now tried another brand new battery and it goes down to the same value under load. Under no load is about 3.3V.
I assume this shows a higher than expected drain?
PS. I checked Jarchie's wiring dia and I will have a check of the voltage divider R1-R2 and capacitor C10 and report back.
Please be positive and constructive with your questions and comments.