Hi,
I recently bought the FX-888 model from a dealer in the UK (silver version) and it came with a fine pencil tip point (T18-B) which I am not used to. My old iron was a 25W Antex iron with a basic tip (the cylinder with the tip cut at an angle).
I am only soldering through-hole components, so would it be better to get a different tip: http://www.hakko.com/english/tip_select ... point.html
I'm thinking a BC/C (cone or column cut at a slant) or more likely a D tip (shape like a flat-blade screwdriver).
Any help would be most appreciated. Thank you
Hakko Soldering Iron Tips (FX-888)
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Please be positive and constructive with your questions and comments.
- adafruit_support_bill
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Re: Hakko Soldering Iron Tips (FX-888)
I generally prefer the chisel tips. I keep a few different sizes around for different types of work. I use a Weller, but the Hakko chisel tips look similar.
- blind-summit
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Re: Hakko Soldering Iron Tips (FX-888)
So that would be the D type then. They do look nice to use as they can butt right up against the parts to be soldered. I am finding the pointed tip a bit hard to use - messy solder joints.
So for basic through-hole work, what sort of tip size would you pick from these: http://www.hakko.com/english/tip_select ... tml#type_d
Perhaps pick 2 so that I'm covered?
Thanks,
Alex
So for basic through-hole work, what sort of tip size would you pick from these: http://www.hakko.com/english/tip_select ... tml#type_d
Perhaps pick 2 so that I'm covered?
Thanks,
Alex
- adafruit_support_bill
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Re: Hakko Soldering Iron Tips (FX-888)
The 1.2 would be my first pick. The 1.6 or larger would be good for things like heavier gauge wires or power jack terminals. The 0.6 would be good if you need to work with any surface mount components.
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Re: Hakko Soldering Iron Tips (FX-888)
The very fine point conical tips are not very good for general use. but the thicker conical ones are good.
You have to come in sideways though, rather than end-on like the chisel type.
You have to come in sideways though, rather than end-on like the chisel type.
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Re: Hakko Soldering Iron Tips (FX-888)
Well, I took the advice and am checking on the stock for the T18-D12 Shape-1.2D tips:
The one the iron came with was a "Shape B" conical tip which I don't find as easy to use:
The "el-cheapo" iron I am used to has a slant-cut conical tip, a little like this "Shape C" one:
I'm sure with some more practice, the conical tip will become easier to use. I really do need to get some flux though - but have no idea what to get, or where to get it from (decent stuff) - any ideas?
The one the iron came with was a "Shape B" conical tip which I don't find as easy to use:
The "el-cheapo" iron I am used to has a slant-cut conical tip, a little like this "Shape C" one:
I'm sure with some more practice, the conical tip will become easier to use. I really do need to get some flux though - but have no idea what to get, or where to get it from (decent stuff) - any ideas?
-
- Posts: 307
- Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 6:48 am
Re: Hakko Soldering Iron Tips (FX-888)
I'd go with whatever you feel comfortable with as long as it functions well for the task at hand. But the chisel ones seem the best all-rounder.
You might want a bigger chisel than the 1.2 as well, maybe 1.6 or 2. For best heat transfer you should use the tip that is the biggest you can get away with.
I usually use a chisel or a conical. Never tried the C-shape (Hoof tip) but I think they are good for drag soldering of SMD ICs. Mini-wave is even better though.
Sadly the 936 and 888 don't have mini-wave tips! I've bought some non-standard tips for my 936 on eBay of a brand called JLY but they had no mini-wave either. It's simply a C-type with an indentation to hold solder where there is normally a flat face, doesn't seem like it would be difficult to produce!
I'm used to conical as my first irons had only that, however I noticed the B-type tip I bought for my 936 had a bigger, more rounded point on it than those I was familiar with. The ones on my old irons aren't needle-point but they do come down pretty sharp.
Short and a bit pointy rather than long and really pointy
As for flux, I don't think it matters too much which type you get, they will all help. From what I've seen on Youtube videos:
*) Syringe seems good for already placed but not soldered SMD parts (tight control, no physical contact)
*) Flux-pen is a good all-round way and easy to use
*) Paste-flux seems to be for the times where you want the flux to hang around for a while without burning off too quickly. Say, cleaning up a large BGA's pads or such.
You might want a bigger chisel than the 1.2 as well, maybe 1.6 or 2. For best heat transfer you should use the tip that is the biggest you can get away with.
I usually use a chisel or a conical. Never tried the C-shape (Hoof tip) but I think they are good for drag soldering of SMD ICs. Mini-wave is even better though.
Sadly the 936 and 888 don't have mini-wave tips! I've bought some non-standard tips for my 936 on eBay of a brand called JLY but they had no mini-wave either. It's simply a C-type with an indentation to hold solder where there is normally a flat face, doesn't seem like it would be difficult to produce!
I'm used to conical as my first irons had only that, however I noticed the B-type tip I bought for my 936 had a bigger, more rounded point on it than those I was familiar with. The ones on my old irons aren't needle-point but they do come down pretty sharp.
Short and a bit pointy rather than long and really pointy
As for flux, I don't think it matters too much which type you get, they will all help. From what I've seen on Youtube videos:
*) Syringe seems good for already placed but not soldered SMD parts (tight control, no physical contact)
*) Flux-pen is a good all-round way and easy to use
*) Paste-flux seems to be for the times where you want the flux to hang around for a while without burning off too quickly. Say, cleaning up a large BGA's pads or such.
Please be positive and constructive with your questions and comments.